Custom Head Cooling Mod Installation Instructions Click on the applicable
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APS/Invictus Custom Head Cooling Mod Installation Instructions - Style 1
Parts Included:
Note: We assume that anyone performing this modification has enough automotive knowledge to remove the exhaust system, transmission, and bell housing. Instructions:
1. Remove exhaust,
transmission, and bell housing.
2. Remove drain plug from driver's side, rear of motor. This plug usually has a blue mark and is just below the head. This will drain the cooling system enough for freeze plug removal.
3. Remove stock passenger side fitting.
Note the fitting orientation between the stock fitting and the stock heater hose before you remove it so you can put the new Passenger Head Fitting in the same way. Remove bolts and pull stock fitting from the head. Squeeze the stock hose clamp using a pliers and remove fitting from hose. Be careful and make sure you don’t put downward pressure on the hose which could bend or break the aluminum heater core fitting on the other end of the hose.
4. Place mounting plates in designated sleeve on each new head fitting as shown. Although only one hole may line up on the driver side head, it will be sufficient enough to hold the fitting in place.
5. Squeeze stock hose clamp and install new Passenger Head Fitting into stock heater hose that you just removed the stock fitting from. Lube o-ring using coolant to help protect o-ring during installation and slide new fitting into the head. Replace bolts. 6. Loosen top EGR tube nut. This nut is on the driver's side back of the supercharger. Loosen nut at bottom of EGR tube and remove bottom of EGR tube from exhaust. With the top loose, you should be able to move the EGR tube enough to install the Driver's Head Fitting (Step 9).
7. Remove two bolts holding support bracket to back of driver's side head. Move the support bracket up and to the left so it is out of your way.
8. Remove
freeze plug from the driver's head. Use a hammer and chisel to tap at the
top of the plug which causes the bottom of the plug to come out towards you, and
then remove with needle nose pliers.
9. Clean up freeze plug bore if necessary, removing any leftover glue. 10. Lubricate o-ring on the Driver's Head Fitting with coolant and install it into the driver's side head. With the flywheel out we installed the fitting with the outlet tube pointing at 5:00. If you still have the flywheel in place, you may have to rotate the fitting some to get it into the freeze plug bore. 11. Return the support bracket to its original position and install the stock bolts loosely but far enough that the outlet tube will clear the head of the bolt when you rotate the fitting into position. The bracket can be bolted in either behind or in front of the new mounting plate, whichever is easier to do.
12. Rotate the Driver's Head Fitting counter clockwise (starting from 5:00 position) sliding the fitting ear under the support bracket so the fitting will be held on by the bolt. Do not tighten bolts yet. 13. Reinstall bottom of EGR tube and tighten top and bottom bolts. Rotate Driver's Head Fitting so it does not touch EGR tube. Tighten bracket bolts.
14. Lubricate o-ring on the Passenger's Head Fitting with coolant and install simply by pressing it into the passenger side head. Line up the mounting plate to the threaded holes and reinstall bolts.
15. Trial fit bell housing to make sure you have clearance between the bell housing and the Driver Head Fitting. Adjust positioning of Driver Head Fitting, if necessary, to clear bell housing. 16. Install silicone Heater Hose between the Driver's Head Fitting and the Passenger Head Fitting using the 2 clamps supplied. No cutting of this hose should be necessary, but trim if necessary to fit. 17. Re-check to make sure all bolts are tight and that the Driver's Head Fitting is not contacting the EGR tube.
18. Refill cooling system following Ford coolant refill directions. Make sure you get any air out of the system to prevent overheating. 19.
Reinstall bell housing, transmission and exhaust. NOTE: There is a
bracket on top of the bell housing that holds the O2 sensor lines. This
bracket must be removed. Also remove the white plastic clip from the top
center box connection so that it does not rub on the new Heater Hose. You
can wire tie these lines out of the way if you feel it is necessary. Bracket from
Step 17.
NOTE! There is a restrictor in the stock hose that helps prevent surges of coolant into the heater core. Inside this restrictor is a washer that restricts the coolant flow even more. APS recommends that these restrictions be left in, as they are important to the proper function of the heater core/heater system.
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News
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Many people ask what causes their shifter to be noisy.
Actually it isn't the shifter that is noisy. What you hear is transmission gear noise being transmitted through the shifter (especially billet shifters) into the cabin.
The thin, irregular bead of silicon sealer normally used on the bottom of the shifter base doesn't do well as a noise isolator. The only real noise isolator is the thick rubber gasket on the shifter handle. It isolates some of the gear noise from the transmission, but not near enough.
There IS an inexpensive and simple solution. Buy One Of My Shifter Gasket Sets! By adding my Shifter Gasket Set you can reduce this gear noise and enjoy a quieter shifter. My shifter gaskets can be used on both stock and aftermarket shifters.
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