Parts Included:  

Note:  We assume that anyone performing this modification has enough automotive knowledge to remove the exhaust system, transmission, and bell housing.   

Instructions: 

Preface:  This install is easier to perform with the blower removed.  I’ve heard that it can be done with the blower in place, but I have never done it and I don’t know if there are any added steps or tools required to complete it.  Also, the bracket that holds the fitting into the head may need some minor trimming.  I used a grinder to take a little bit of metal off of one of the corners, but this may not be needed in all cases.  It’s a very minor modification and it only requires minimal grinding or “reshaping” if it requires any at all in your car.  

First drain the cooling system.  Once the system is drained, you need to locate the freeze plug in the rear of the intake port deck of the driver side head.  Below is a picture of a DOHC head removed from the driver side of a 4.6L engine.    

With the head on the car, you’ll be able to see the freeze plug just behind the rear most intake port (facing upward) on the driver side head.  It’s actually just under the EGR valve.  That freeze plug must be removed completely in order to install the head cooling mod.  The easiest way I have found to remove it, is simply to place a dull end punch as far to one side as possible and tap it with a hammer until it spins in its bore.  Basically what you’ll be left with is the freeze plug spun 90* so that it’s sticking up but still wedged in its bore.  You’ll then need to grab it with a pair of pliers or vice-grips to yank it out the rest of the way.  It’s very important that you don’t strike the freeze plug in the middle.  You need to strike it as far to one edge as possible without smashing the lip or dinging the head.

I recommend taking your blunt tip punch and resting it against the inside lip of the freeze plug, then simply tapping with a hammer until it rotates inside of its bore.  Some have had problems getting the stubborn plug to rotate and I have heard of people using compressed cans of “computer cleaning” air to actually freeze the plug and cause it to contract just enough to allow it to loosen up.  I never had to do that and don’t recommend it due to the possibility of knocking the plug completely into the head which will cause an entirely new problem that will not be easy to fix.  I just keep hitting the same spot until it spins.   

Once the plug is completely removed, you can simply press the supplied billet fitting into the open bore in the head.  Don’t tighten the AN fittings yet, but it is okay to affix the supplied stainless hose to the billet fitting prior to install.  Use a small amount of grease around the rubber “O” ring to make it slide in easier.  There is no need for any kind of silicone sealer or Permatex.  The rubber O-ring seals the fitting and the flat retaining bracket will hold it all in place.  Once you push the Billet fitting into the hole, slide the flat retaining bracket into the groove of the billet fitting then align the existing bolt hole in the head with the hole in the flat retaining bracket.  This is where you may need to make some modifications to the flat retaining bracket.  I needed to grind some metal off of the outer edge in order to clear the PCV tube that runs under the intake and the firewall.  I don’t know if this will be necessary on every car, but it was for mine.  It was very simple and minor grinding and you’ll know right away if you need to grind anything.  Once you get everything lined up, you can secure the flat bracket with an 8mm bolt.

This is what the fitting looks like when it’s completely installed.  Once it’s locked into place, you can align the AN fitting and braided line to the direction that you want it to go in.  I ran mine completely behind and under the blower plenum.   

The following pictures show the entire line and head fitting installed in the car.

The next thing you’ll need to do is cut into the upper radiator hose to fit the hose fitting into it.  I used a razor blade to cut approximately ½” of hose out of one section.  It really makes no difference where you mount the hose fitting within the hose, but some things to keep in mind is clearing your intercooler tank (I have an aftermarket intercooler tank that is much larger than the factory tank), clearing your intake system and clearing your cam cover without scratching it up or rubbing.  Below is a picture of where I cut the fitting in and the angle that I have the hose routing into it.  I have a JLT High Boost intake and True Forged Icey Tank intercooler tank and this position clears both. 



You can tighten the AN fittings once you have the braided hose run where you want it. 

Once you have the hose clamps tightened up and the line where you want it, you can start refilling the system.  Obviously if you removed the blower, you’ll need to put it back on before you can do this.  The car needs to be running when you fill the system to avoid getting air bubbles locked in the lower portion of the jackets, radiator and hoses.  Remove the fill plug from the cross over tube and also remove the radiator / expansion tank cap.  Start the car and fill the system from the cross over tube plug until the expansion tank starts to fill.  Once the tank starts to fill, let the car run until the thermostat opens.  Once the thermostat opens you can fill the rest of the system through the tank and put the cross over tube cap back in place.  You may need to burp some of the air out of the system again by pulling the cap out of the cross over and squeezing the hoses, forcing any air up toward the cap.   

This job shouldn’t take much more than a few hours to install once the blower is off.  It has been done with the blower still in place, but I haven’t done it.  If you can see the entire freeze plug, you can get to it.  The fitting supplied with the head cooling mod does not require being hammered in or forced into the hole in any way.  It simply slips into the freeze plug bore and seals with the O ring and flat retaining bracket.   

When the install is complete, you can barely see it.  The picture I supplied below show it all back together and as you can tell, you can only see the braided hose from a few angles and even then, it doesn’t stand out.  I’d say if you discount the removal and reinstall of the blower, this kit shouldn’t take much more than an hour or two to install.  This was my second time doing a blower swap / head cooling mod and it took me about 6-8 hours total to complete it (that was by myself in my garage and includes cam covers and idler pulleys as well).     

Congrats!  You're done!  Enjoy! 

Here are a few additional photos  of the Style 2 Mod.
 

    


Here are some photos  of the Style 2 Mod installed, courtesy of PistolWhip on SVTPerformance.com.

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